and Top Rope Solo
How is it performed?
Top Rope Solo is a technique where the climber ascends a wall alone, with the rope anchored at the top, but without a belay partner. The climber uses a self-belay device to prevent falls.
The activity in TRS is essentially a rope ascent technique using a safety line.
What precautions should be taken when using SULU GO for this technique?
TRS should only be practiced by SKILLED AND EXPERIENCED climbers and only after becoming familiar with the use of SULU GO.
During Top Rope Solo climbing, SULU GO should not be considered a passive belay device; it must be actively managed throughout the ascent and continuously monitored to ensure it stays centered on the climber, does not get stuck laterally on the leg loops or other gear attached to the harness, and is not dragged against the rock or into positions that restrict its rotation and movement. If necessary, it should be repositioned to its central, free-moving state by resetting it upwards, as shown in the video below.
This content is not exhaustive; it is strongly recommended to carefully read the user manual.
SULU GO MUST ALWAYS BE CHECKED BEFORE EACH USE
1. Check that the lever moves freely and properly engages the closure of the rope passageway.
2. Check that the rope sliding corridor opens and closes smoothly, without any obstructions.
How is the SULU GO positioned on the belay loop
SULU GO must be attached via the connector to the belay loop of the lower harness.
It is recommended to always keep SULU GO attached only to the belay loop, as shown in the first figure.
If desired, the device can be slightly lifted using a cord with a maximum diameter of 4 mm, passing through the connector hole and attached, for example, to the upper part of the harness. In this case the device MUST NEVER go above the belay loop and the angle of the connector MUST NEVER exceed the horizontal line; if lifted too high, the device may not function properly.
To minimize the distance between the device and the belay loop, it is recommended to use a suitable, small-sized connector.
SULU GO features a two-button locking system to prevent accidental opening when held in hand and used for belaying a lead climber. In TRS (Top Rope Solo) climbing, unlike all other uses, SULU GO is not held in hand and is not always under the user’s visual control. There might be situations where the device, left free to move while attached to the harness, could accidentally come into contact with irregular surfaces, bushes, etc.
Since these are unpredictable and potentially dangerous situations, an additional safety measure is required during Top Rope Solo climbing. This measure completely locks the device’s opening by inserting the connector into a dedicated safety slot.
SULU GO MUST ALWAYS BE FREE TO MOVE AND ROTATE IN ORDER TO ACTIVATE AND LOCK THE ROPE
During Top Rope Solo climbing, SULU GO should not be assumed to follow the climber passively.
It must be constantly
monitored to ensure it remains centered on the climber, does not get stuck laterally on the leg loops, and is not dragged against the rock or into other positions that could limit its rotation and movement. If necessary, it should be repositioned, as shown in the video, to its central position where it is free to move and rotate.
The video below demonstrates some techniques that climbers can use to maintain control of the device.
What laboratory tests have been conducted on SULU GO?
A fall during an ascent on a safety rope is partially simulated by tests outlined in EN 15151-1, which applies to braking devices with manually assisted locking, commonly referred to as “semi-automatic belay devices.”
The tests required by this standard include:
Static resistance tests, where the device must withstand a force of 8 kN for 60 seconds.
Dynamic performance tests, simulating a fall by an 80 kg climber who, after ascending approximately one meter, falls directly onto the safety device without friction.
This is a crucial test, as it replicates the maximum fall factor that a fall-arrest device might experience.
Additionally, devices designed to protect against falls during rope ascent must comply with EN 12841, a work-at-height standard covering self-belay devices in rope access systems. Specifically, they fall under EN 12841:2006, clause 5.6.2, with EN 12841 A regulating fall-arrest devices for professional use.
The certification body applied part of the EN 12841 A testing procedures to SULU GO, and the device was deemed compliant.
What ropes were used for testing?
ll fall tests conducted on SULU GO for safety rope ascent were performed using EN 892 dynamic ropes (diameters 8.9 – 10.2 mm), EN 564 accessory cords and EN 1891 semi-static ropes (diameters 6 – 11 mm) with a mandatory EN 355 energy absorber.
AC Team has decided to restrict the use of thin ropes only to those with a breaking strength exceeding 12 kN (Kevlar core).
Freedom of Movement on the Rope
SULU GO follows the climber during ascent. If left free on the rope, its weight may also cause it to slide downward. This does not affect its holding capability in any way.
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